Where: East of the Burgundy region in France, pushed right up against the border with Switzerland. Heard of the Jurassic era? It’s actually named after the Jura region, because its limestone soils were first studied in this neck of the woods. Vines share this region with the Jura Mountains and thick forest, which keep it somewhat isolated. Accordingly, they do things their own way in the Jura.
What: The region is best known for its deliberately oxidized whites, including the singular Vin Jaune, although dry and fresh whites also exist. Both styles are made from Savagnin and/or Chardonnay. The Jura is also home to pale, savory reds from the local Poulsard and Trousseau grapes, as well as Pinot Noir. And the region is home to amazing sparkling wine called Crémant du Jura that’s made in the same way as Champagne (though tends to come with a smaller price tag).
Vin Jaune literally means “yellow wine”; indeed it is a yellow-hued, richly nutty, oxidative, dry wine made from Savagnin grapes. The wine is aged in barrel for six years, during which time a “veil” of native yeast grows over the surface of the wine, while some of the wine also evaporates through the pores of the oak barrel. The result is intensely complex, with notes of walnuts, hazlenuts and curry and a surprisingly strong streak of acidity.
With: Comté, a local, nutty cheese; or chicken fricassee with extra mushrooms.
Who: Jacques Puffeney works in a town in the Jura called Arbois; he’s known as the “Pope of Arbois” for good reason (his wines are GOOD). And try anything from younger, biodynamic winemaking couple Evelyne and Pascal Clairet at Domaine de la Tournelle.
